A Rome Without Tourists

A Rome Without Tourists

In this part of town called Garbatella, you won’t find any tourists and even more rare are painters.

The Red Arch, Garbatella
Oil on Paper (mounted)
12 x 10″
SOLD

This is a place for working class people and they seem to all know that they’ve got a special place to live unlike any other in Rome.This neighborhood is full of what are called lotti in Italian or in English we might say lots. Lots in the sense of they are blocks of small homes, rarely apartment buildings, and share an enormous internal courtyard. This one in particular is special, and one I keep returning to. It is also inhabited by an olive tree that is well over 100 years old and shades one half of the courtyard.On this day all the kids were out playing soccer since they’re now out of school. Last summer when I painted another view in this same courtyard the kids were vying for space in an inflatable kiddie swimming pool that they had dragged into the middle just through the arch.

Summer in the Courtyard, Garbatella
Oil on Wood
23 x 19 cm
SOLD

This is a communal living space, something of an Italy almost past except for small villages. Painting here is to invade these people’s quiet lifestyle and so I approached an elderly woman sweeping the courtyard upon my arrival to ask her permission to stand and paint here for the morning.

Afternoon at the Fountain, Garbatella
Oil on Linen Panel
10 x 12″

As the hours passed I made sure to say hello to everyone coming by. Most people stopped to talk and see my progress and to give their thoughts on what I was painting. This is part of Valeria’s house I was told, though I never met her that morning.Garbatella is a special place and one I will always return to.